Deep in the heart of Gyeongsangbuk-do lies a region of unparalleled natural beauty, a place where dramatic stone peaks tell ancient legends and a mystical pond reflects the changing of seasons with ethereal grace. This is Cheongsong, a designated UNESCO Global Geopark and home to two of South Korea's most breathtaking natural treasures: Juwangsan National Park (์ฃผ์์ฐ๊ตญ๋ฆฝ๊ณต์) and Jusanji Pond (์ฃผ์ฐ์ง). For hikers, photographers, and seekers of tranquility, a journey to Cheongsong is a pilgrimage to a landscape that feels both primeval and poetic. This ultimate guide will lead you through the stunning valleys of Juwangsan and to the silent, submerged willows of Jusanji, ensuring your adventure in this hidden gem of Korea is nothing short of magical.
Before embarking on your adventure, it's worth knowing a little about Cheongsong itself. The name "Cheongsong" (์ฒญ์ก) means "Green Pine," a fitting title for a region covered in dense, beautiful forests. It's one of Korea's designated "Slow Cities," a testament to its commitment to preserving its natural environment and traditional culture. This is a place to slow down, breathe in the clean mountain air, and reconnect with nature. Its most famous assets, Juwangsan and Jusanji, are the pinnacles of this natural heritage.
Designated as a national park in 1976, Juwangsan is the smallest of Korea's national parks, but it packs an incredible amount of scenic beauty into its compact area. It's renowned for its towering rock formations, deep valleys, and magnificent waterfalls, all easily accessible via well-maintained trails.
The Legend of King Juwang
The park gets its name from a legend. It's said that a Chinese general named Ju, who declared himself the "King of Ju" (Juwang), took refuge in these mountains after a failed rebellion during the Tang Dynasty. He was eventually defeated here, but the dramatic cliffs, caves, and peaks are forever associated with his story. As you hike, you'll encounter places like Giam Rock (the Flag Rock) and the Juwangam Hermitage, which are tied to this fascinating legend.
The Main Hiking Course: Juwang Valley Trail (์ฃผ์๊ณ๊ณก ์ฝ์ค) ๐ถ
This is the most popular and accessible trail, perfect for a day trip and suitable for all fitness levels, including families. It’s a relatively flat, out-and-back trail that follows a stream deep into the valley, showcasing the park's main highlights.
Distance: Approximately 4.4 km (one way to the 3rd waterfall)
Duration: 2.5 - 3 hours (round trip)
Highlights:
Daejeonsa Temple (๋์ ์ฌ): Your journey begins at this beautiful temple, perfectly framed by the towering Giam Rock formation. It's one of the most iconic photo spots in the park.
Siru-bong Peak (์๋ฃจ๋ด): A short way into the hike, you'll see this unique rock that resembles a siru, a traditional earthenware steamer.
Yongchu Falls (์ฉ์ถํญํฌ) - The 1st Waterfall: This stunning spot is actually a trio of a waterfall, a gorge called "Hahakso," and a deep emerald pool. The sound of the rushing water and the sheer rock walls are awe-inspiring.
Jeolgu Falls (์ ๊ตฌํญํฌ) - The 2nd Waterfall: A beautiful two-tiered waterfall that resembles a jeolgu (a traditional mortar).
Yongyeon Falls (์ฉ์ฐํญํฌ) - The 3rd Waterfall: The final waterfall on this course, known for its two tiers and the "dragon's pool" at its base.
For the More Adventurous Hiker: Giam Rock & Ju-bong Peak Course
If you're looking for a more challenging hike with panoramic views, consider tackling the park's main peak. This trail is much steeper and more strenuous.
Duration: 4-5 hours (round trip)
Highlights: You'll climb past the legendary Giam Rock and be rewarded at the summit of Ju-bong Peak (721m) with sweeping views of the entire national park and the surrounding Cheongsong landscape.
A short drive from Juwangsan's main entrance lies a place of otherworldly beauty: Jusanji Pond. This is not a natural lake but a small, man-made reservoir built in 1721. Its fame, however, comes from the ancient king willow and willow trees that grow directly out of the water.
A Photographer's Dream in Every Season
Jusanji is a place of serene, almost surreal beauty. The submerged trees, with their gnarled, mossy branches, create a mystical and ever-changing scene.
Spring: The new green leaves burst forth, creating a vibrant, fresh scene.
Summer: The foliage is lush and deep green, reflecting perfectly on the calm water.
Autumn: This is arguably the most popular season. The surrounding mountains erupt in a riot of red, orange, and yellow, which frames the pond in fiery color. The contrast between the fall foliage and the green moss on the trees is breathtaking.
Winter: A blanket of snow transforms the pond into a stark, monochromatic wonderland.
Misty Mornings: For the most magical experience, visit Jusanji at dawn. A thick morning mist often blankets the water's surface, creating a dreamy, phantom-like atmosphere as the sun rises.
The "Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter... and Spring" Connection
Jusanji Pond was immortalized in the critically acclaimed 2003 film by Kim Ki-duk, "Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter... and Spring." The movie's floating temple was a set built on the pond, and its beautiful cinematography showcased the pond's cyclical beauty to the world, turning it into a must-visit destination.
Visiting Jusanji
An easy, flat wooden deck trail (about 1 km) circles the pond, allowing visitors to enjoy the view from various angles without disturbing the fragile environment. The walk is short and suitable for everyone.
The Best Time to Visit: A Seasonal Guide ๐
Autumn (Mid-October to early November): This is the absolute peak season. The fall foliage at both Juwangsan and Jusanji is considered among the best in Korea. Be prepared for large crowds, especially on weekends.
Spring (April to May): A beautiful time with fresh greenery and pleasant hiking weather.
Summer (July to August): Lush and green, but it can be hot, humid, and rainy. The waterfalls in Juwangsan will be at their most powerful.
Winter (December to February): A quiet, peaceful season. The snowy landscapes are beautiful, but be sure to wear appropriate winter hiking gear (crampons are a must).
How to Get There
Cheongsong is a rural county, and getting there requires some planning.
By Car: This is the most convenient option, as it allows you to easily travel between Juwangsan and Jusanji Pond. From Seoul, the drive takes approximately 3.5 to 4.5 hours.
By Public Transportation:
Take an express bus from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Cheongsong.
From the Cheongsong Intercity Bus Terminal, you can take a local bus bound for Juwangsan National Park.
To get from Juwangsan to Jusanji, you will need to take another local bus (the schedule can be infrequent) or a taxi.
Cheongsong's Local Delicacies You Must Try ๐
Cheongsong Apples: The region is famous for producing some of Korea's most delicious and crisp apples, thanks to the large daily temperature range. You'll see orchards everywhere, and you must buy a bag from a local stall.
Chicken Baeksuk (๋ญ๋ฐฑ์): In the restaurant village near the Juwangsan entrance, you'll find many restaurants specializing in this hearty dish—a whole chicken boiled with medicinal herbs and sticky rice. It's the perfect post-hike meal.
Sanche-bibimbap (์ฐ์ฑ๋น๋น๋ฐฅ): A delicious and healthy rice bowl topped with various wild mountain vegetables.
Q: Can I visit both Juwangsan and Jusanji in a single day? A: Yes, it is very possible, especially if you have a car. A good plan is to visit Jusanji Pond early in the morning for the mist, and then head to Juwangsan National Park for a hike up the main valley trail in the late morning and afternoon.
Q: How difficult is the main hike in Juwangsan?
A: The main Juwang Valley Trail to the third waterfall is considered easy. It is mostly flat with well-maintained paths and wooden decks. It is very family-friendly and suitable for beginners. Only the courses to the mountain peaks are strenuous.
Q: Is there an entrance fee for the park and the pond?
A: Juwangsan National Park has an entrance fee which also covers admission to Daejeonsa Temple at the entrance. As of now, Jusanji Pond itself is free to visit, though you may need to pay for parking.
Q: Are there accommodations near the park?
A: Yes, the area around the entrance to Juwangsan National Park has a small village with numerous minbaks (guesthouses), motels, and a few resort-style hotels. It's best to book in advance, especially during the peak autumn season.
Q: What should I wear for the hike?
A: Wear comfortable hiking shoes or sturdy sneakers. Dress in layers, as the temperature in the mountains can change quickly. Even in summer, a light jacket is a good idea. In winter, thermal clothing, gloves, a hat, and ice cleats (crampons) for your shoes are essential.
References:
Korea National Park Service (Juwangsan):
Cheongsong UNESCO Global Geopark:
Visit Korea - Juwangsan National Park:
Visit Korea - Jusanji Pond:
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